At Grounded, where our office has been in Goa since 2010, we often go on heritage walks and bird-watching expeditions as a team to get to know each other as well as to get to know Goa. This time, we ventured into South Goa, villages of Assolna and Velim for a heritage walk organized by the Museum of Christian Art. Headed by Clive Figueiredo and Noah Fernandes. Our walk began at the Holy Cross Chapel Baradi, with stunning views of the area that we were about to explore. Followed by St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim, and Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. 

Goa has more spoken traditions than written records. One such cultural tradition makes Velim village, important for the locals. The Churches here are not as elaborate as the churches in the north or other parts of Goa but have a historical importance. We started with St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim established in the 19th century. The facade of this chapel has a bell tower at the top center which is neoclassical, and has minimal features having IHS insignia. The facade can also be counted as Art Deco in Goa because of the sunburst on the sides. 

As we went inside the Church we were briefed about the iconography associated with elaborate features of the structure. For example, in Asolna the majority of locals are shipbearers so the Our Lady in the church holds a silver or wooden carved ship in her hand. We also learned about dying features like the Pulpit. Which is not in use anymore and some churches are removing those elements. In this church, because the staircase on the other side of the wall leading to the pulpit is now removed, it just floats on the wall with no way to access it. 

Pulpit

As the time passes, both the churches have gone through some modifications. We learned how by observing the color, sometimes the material, and intricacy in ornamentation we can tell the time period of that object. Both the churches we visited were of a different time -so we could observe the variations in detail and changes done over time. 

Our final stop was Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. There is photographic evidence of this church having a fort wall remains in its premises back in the day. This chapel was more elaborate and huge with its school premises, offices, cemetery, and the Cristo Rei monument! We learned about the church and its mosaic tiles, wooden carvings, and iconography. One of the most fascinating moments of the walk was exploring the closet of ceremonial items inside the church building. 

It was a very good effort by the Museum of Christian Art to bring together a group of interested people from different backgrounds. We were also accompanied by residents from the Museum of Christian Art Society for the walk. The heritage walk was not just for architects, it was a wonderful gathering of local enthusiasts, conservationists, and historians, all passionate about Goa's rich cultural fabric. Whether you're living in Goa or you are new to Goa, this heritage walk can help you connect with the city a little better.

Holy Cross Chapel, Baradi

St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim

Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna

Cristo Rei, Assolna

Read more about South Goa and Goan Heritage

Goa is known for its vibrant tourism with its stunning Goan villas, traditional wadas, and modern Goan houses lining the scenic streets. These picturesque homes are nestled among lush plantations and swaying trees in Goa. But have you ever paid attention to the intriguing details on the roofs of these old houses?

Take a closer look, and you’ll notice terracotta figures perched on the entrance gateways and atop the roofs. These old Portuguese houses in the Goa residential area date back 150 to 400 years. The tradition of placing these figures on the rooftops has been there from the beginning, though living in Goa many homeowners may not know their history or meaning. These figures are of soldiers, cockerels, rabbits, pigs, lions, and even seated human figures.

Soldados (Portuguese for soldiers) Saluting at the entrance of a house in Goa

They symbolize the identity of the homeowners, offering a glimpse into who resides beneath the roof without directly knowing them. For instance, lion motifs, mostly seen on the entrance gateways represent strength and signify a connection to the Kadamba Dynasty. The lion was the royal emblem of the Kadamba Dynasty which ruled Goa from the 10th to 14th centuries. Roosters, on the other hand, are linked to the rooster of Barcelos, a character symbolizing integrity and truth from a beloved Portuguese folktale, often seen on the roofs of Goan Catholic houses. Landlords' houses often featured animal motifs like lions, with the animal pointing in the direction of the property.

Rooftop Human, Source: Reddit

Lion on Gateways, Source: Soultravelling

Rooftop sentinel, Source: Gomantak Times

Architecturally, these figures contribute to the aesthetics of the rooftop by sitting on the meeting point of multiple roofs, adding to the visual appeal. The figurines on the gateways give a sense of richness to the visitors, like the massive fort gates. Today, these miniature ornaments are not just decorative; they are an integral part of Goa’s culture, reflecting the community’s rich past. They also connect us to the local artists of Goa who craft these terracotta artifacts, including the charming miniatures.

Curiosity often unveils hidden treasures. So, next time you wander through the streets of Goa, pause to admire these rooftop details. Who knows what stories you might uncover?