Goa is beautiful and rich in its diversity. It has something to offer to every visitor. In this blogpost, we have created a quick map with some of Goa’s best - your very own printable checklist of what to see, where to go and what to do over your next Goa trip. The map has a mix of old houses in Goa, its most popular beaches, the best natural and wildlife sanctuaries in Goa among other popular destinations. For a detailed breakdown of the differences and similarities between North Goa and South Goa, click on the map to read our analysis comparing the two districts.

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Unlike the other colonial powers in India, the Portuguese managed to leave a much more visible mark on the residential architecture of the area they ruled. The British and the French left their mark on the architecture of huge buildings such as assemblies and railway stations which have since become landmarks of the period.

The Portuguese in Goa built residential houses reflecting a style which is hardly found elsewhere on the Indian subcontinent. These magnificent palatial houses inspired by European architectural style are still found in Goa today, although they are confined to the rural areas such as Chandrapura, Chandor and Loutolim. These mansions were built in an era when the Portuguese had handsome profits from their trading colonies in Africa and South America.

This blogpost looks at some of the old heritage houses of South Goa which were inspired by European architectural styles and stand tall even today.

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Braganza House

The Braganza House is 350 years old and occupies one entire side of the village square in Chandor. This elaborate mansion is spread over 10,000 sqm and is divided into two wings that are occupied by the Braganza family. The palatial house has a stunning ballroom, massive Belgian crystal chandeliers, exquisite antiques collected over centuries and the oldest private library in Goa with over 5000 books.

Palacio do Deao

Palacio do Deao, a 213 years old mansion, was built by a Portuguese noble man, who was the Dean of the Church, and founder of Quepem town. The house faces the Church he built and is on the banks of the wildly beautiful Kushavati River. Here’s a video about the lovely house.

Figueirido House

The magnificent Figueirido House in Loutolim took shape as early as 1590, at a time when the Taj Mahal was yet to be conceived. The Figueiredo family had a prominent presence in Goa as lawyers, diplomats and ambassadors. Today, the family has converted part of this palatial home into a historic museum with yet another section opened out as a breathtaking heritage homestay for visitors. Take a virtual tour through this palatial estate here.

Casa Araujo Alvares

This 250-year-old mansion belongs to the Alvares family and forms part of the Ancestral Goa tourist complex, set up to recreate Goan village life under Portuguese rule. The house has a spacious courtyard, a quaint chapel at its centre, old European furniture like most of its contemporaries and eclectic seashell windows that bring the beach inside.

To know more about the hidden gems of South Goa, read The Charms of South Goa - Part I

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South Goa is paradise on earth with its lush paddy fields, old Portuguese mansions, numerous forests and sanctuaries, pristine beaches and rivers, quaint churches and magnificent forts. The streets of South Goa speak to a different era with a distinctive old world charm. In the first part of this two part blog post, we have selected a few of the quintessential South Goan charms from a long list of abundant natural and man-made wonders.

Cabo de Rama

Cabo de Rama is a relic left from times bygone. Once a magnificent fort that housed an entire community, it remains one of the oldest and largest forts of South Goa and offers a fantastic view of the Canacona Beach below.

Chandor & Loutolim

The villages of Chandor and Loutolim give you the giddy feeling of opening an old book. The Portuguese style sweeps elegantly across the villagescape, evident in the beautiful old world architecture and the laid back lifestyle. Both villages are famous for their centuries old colonial mansions that stand tall even today. We will be looking at these beautiful palatial homes in Part II of our blog post.

Netravali Lake

The Netravali Bubbling Lake in the Sanguem district is one of the lesser known beauties of South Goa. This one of a kind natural lake is known for its mysterious and continuous bubbling water surface throughout the year.

Galgibaga

The Galgibaga Beach is home to silver sands, endless rows of coconut trees and the charming Olive Ridley turtles which come onto the shores every year between November and February to nest and hatch. A ferry ride crossing the picturesque Galgibaga river is the best way to get to the beach.

Naval Aviation Museum

Established in 1947, Naval Aviation Museum offers a glimpse into military history. The museum is designed to look like the interior of a naval aircraft carrier with galleries displaying naval equipment and prominent battles, including a simulation room. It also has an outdoor aircraft park with an exhibition of old aircrafts and engines.The museum is set on a plateau and overlooks the scenic Bogmalo beach.

Mollem National Park

The Mollem National Park is set in a humble 240 sqkm belt nestled in the Western Ghats and houses a wide array of tropical flora and fauna with over 200 unique Indian species. Recognised as one of 36 most crucial biodiversity hotspots in the world, the sanctuary is now threatened by 3 infrastructure projects, announced by the state government. The alarming proposal resulted in widespread dissent with thousands of people coming together for the ‘Save Mollem’ campaign.

To know more about the hidden gems of South Goa, read The Charms of South Goa - Part II

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Elsewhere is a gorgeous down-to-earth resort in Goa with history that dates back to 1886. It is a located on a thin stretch of land adjoining the Arabian Sea. Defining true barefoot luxury, this is the resort Brad and Angelina have rumored to call home during their visit to Goa.

Elsewhere has 4 old houses on the beach that have been lovingly restored and the result appears breathtaking. Retaining the names of their historical use, they are referred to as the Captain's House, the Piggery, the Bakery and the Priest's House.

We love the simplicity of the architecture and the renovations. We love how the houses are simply a medium for users to experience the surrounding landscape which has been left largely untouched. We can imagine some beautiful breezy mornings and starlit nights in these homes.

The Captain's House

The Priest's House

All images are used with full permission, courtesy of the Elsewhere website.

Photo in center: Entrance to the courtyard at Raas Hotel in Jodhpur framing the Mehrangad Fort 

This year happens to be the longest time I have spent in India in the last 10 years. So for our year-end travels, we decided to stay within the Indian Subcontinent. When we travel, we like to linger at a few locations, trying to get to know the place, uncover its many layers, pretend to be local and do things the way locals do.... we find this to be more invigorating and revealing than trying to just check boxes of places visited...

In any case, coming back to the reason for this post, after sorting through a list that included Sri Lanka, Burma and Lakshwadeep, we have decided to travel through Rajasthan at the end of the year. The plan is to start from Jaipur (only place with a direct flight from Goa), then travel to Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Udaipur. Now, since I enjoy being in control (read 'freak'..), I am well on my way with the research and planning for the trip. Apart from the forts, palaces, markets, and museums, I am also very keen to discover the newer contemporary luxury hotel architecture that has cropped up in Rajasthan in the recent past. One that has caught my eye and my imagination is the magnificent Raas Hotel in Jodhpur. Seriously, I can't get enough of this one...Other highlights of course are the Devi Ratn hotel in Jaipur and Rasa tents also a Devi resort in Jaipur.

Facade of the new main building wrapped with a sandstone screen

Rass hotel is spread over a relatively small 1.5 acres. It is built into a complex with three heritage buildings that have been carefully restored. But the real beauty of the place is that 3 new buildings have been added to the complex and this has been done with such finesse that if one looks at the photos, it is hard to see where old ends and the new begins. The planning of the new complex is a great example of adaptive reuse. The new buildings are carefully sited and sized such that they become a part of the historic buildings and landscape. See plan and photo below.

Existing Site Plan with three original heritage buildings

New Site Plan for the Raas Hotel with new buildings added to the heritage compound

Photos of the Raas hotel courtyard, where it is difficult to identify the new buildings as they blend perfectly into the historic landscape

In order to blend the old with the new, the designers have used local red sandstone as the dominant exterior material. And that is fine... as the real naunce in design lies in how the designers have managed to use local material, blend it with the old but do all that using a very neat contemporary design language.

Detail of openable screens in sandstone

The building exteriors are wrapped in red sandstone that is used as a contemporary screen. The top of the building that sticks out of the screen in the main block is kept white to keep it from stealing attention but is still not devoid of character due to its understated modern geometry.

Main new building with sandstone screen and modern geometric form 

Inside the screens, they create dramatic patterns with light that changes during the day

Play of light inside the screens

The interiors follow the same wonderfully articulated blend of old and new. I also feel that lighting has been very cleverly designed to highlight the drama in the spaces.

Love this room and the juxtaposition of the old historic with contemporary furniture and lighting

Bathrooms are separated by thick sandstone slabs, bringing historic element to the otherwise modern space

Traditional seating area with contemporary interiors

Nothing looks better than flowing white curtains !! Notice the modern Bertoia chairs in the historic courtyard

Lovely historic courtyard dotted with contemporary furniture and lighting. Also, love the floors..

Designers used mirrors to reflect the surrounding vistas 

Use of mirrors while they distort the landscape adding drama while being whimsical and arty

Here is keeping my fingers crossed so we can get reservations at the Raas !

Designed by Lotus Praxis Initiative.

Watch architect Ambrish Arora's presentation on the design for Raas

.

Link to

Raas Hotel Website

.

Raas Hotel won the award for Best Holiday Building at the

World Architecture Festival 2011

.

Most photos courtesy

www.designboom.com 

We are back !! After another sojourn to NY this time with a side trip to California as well ! A lot has been keeping us occupied at Nivim. Soon to follow this post are posts on the final stages of the construction at Nivim, the flooring, bathrooms, landscaping, etc etc...

Photos from top-left: Julia Pfeiffer Burns Park at Big Sur, CA; Fresh organic carrots; Lavender fields, Sonoma, CA; Wildflowers, Pacific Coast, CA; Vineyards, Sonoma, CA; Bright organic rhubarb; Artichoke flowers; and Cabin in the redwoods, Big Sur, CA

After food, fashion and art, finally I move on to architecture, clearly my favorite indulgence...During my short last visit to New York, I had the opportunity to hear two great architects talk about their work in the recent years, Enrique Norten from Ten Arquitectos and Charles Renfro from Diller Scofidio + Renfro.

Images of One York Street in New York designed by Enrique Norten

Enrique Norten is a Mexican architect with several design awards under his belt. I have always admired his building - One York Street in TriBeCa in New York (We have at one point seriously considered living in it too !!). The building incorporates and rises out of two 19th Century industrial loft buildings. I love the way the new building has a distinct identity but did not demolish the old buildings or start from scratch to achieve that distinction. The building while preserving the old, still manages to look extremely contemporary and modern. One York is located at a busy street intersection and in between 3-4 neighborhoods. The building does a great job of providing a fitting landmark at this junction without being gimmicky. It is just a piece of very good and slick architecture.

We have spoken about Diller Scofidio + Renfro on this blog before as they are the visionary designers of the magnificent High Line. As a side note, Diane von Furstenburg who we spoke of earlier (Part I of this series of posts) is one of the largest benefactors of the High Line project and occupies a sexy building right next to the rail line. (Read about it

 here 

). It is an old warehouse with a contemporary steel and glass addition on the top. This rooftop addition houses DVF's bedroom. The funky building has a quirky mural on a 3-storey high side wall (a clever piece of branding, I say) and is also lit up in multicolors after-dark.

DVF's live-work loft with the rooftop glass addition along the High Line in NY (

Photo Credit

)

Rooftop addition at DVF's live-work warehouse along the High Line in NY 

Charles Renfro spoke about the firm's constant effort to integrate public space into their buildings. Examples include the new Institute of Contemporary Art in Boston, where they integrated the public harborwalk into the building by carving out a public amphitheater space at the ground level of the building; the Image and Audio Museum in Rio de Janeiro in Brazil where they have designed the front elevation as a public ramp-way that takes people up to the building allowing a user to look into the building, its exhibits and activities; and the addition to the Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center in New York, where they sliced the building to create a public amphitheater seating while exposing the studio spaces providing a barrier free view from the street, once again making the public a part of the building and its activities and vic-a-versa.

Very inspirational out-of-the-box thinking... I love them for slicing and dicing the buildings while dissecting the conventional concept and perception of particular building. Admire them for their ability to step back from the obvious and give each building a new identity. Applaud them blurring the lines between private and public; and making buildings open up to the city.

The Institute of Contemporary Art in Boston by Diller Scofidio + Renfro (

Photo Credit

)

The proposed Image and Audio Museum at Rio de Janiero, Brazil (

Photo Credit

)

The proposed Image and Audio Museum at Rio de Janiero, Brazil (

Photo Credit

)

Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center in New York (

Photo Credit

)

YUMMM !! Six different Bagels with six different toppings (above) and fried Montanara pizza (below) 

Just returned from a quick whirlwind tour of New York. Along with my usual New York fix of bagel and cream cheese, pizza (this time it was the fried Montanara !!) and beer, J Crew and Anthropologie, I put in the needed effort to expose myself to cutting edge design and designers. This is my way to continue to be inspired. Nothing seems impossible when one is in this great city and one does not have to look far for inspiration. There is a more than average concentration of talent and creativity here. I aim to soak in as much as I can whenever I am back.

Dress by Norma Kamali, Oscar de la Renta and Rudi Gernreich (Photo Credit)

First, I made it to a great fashion exhibition commerorating designs and American designers that have had a notable impact on fashion in the last 50 years. The exhibition was conceived by Diane von Furstenberg, who is one of my favorite designers. I love her use of bold colors and playful prints while keeping the outfits fairly simple and elegant in cut and design.

Photo 1: A dress by Halston, Photo 2: (from L to R) Dress by Thakoon, Yeohlee Teng and Proenza Schouler, Photo 3: Dress by Sidney Wragge (Photo Credits: Link)

The exhibition ranged from fairly simple clean designs to the very detailed over-the-top designs including the gorgeous Norma Kamali, black parachute cloth and feather jacket, skirt and turban, circa 2011, and Oscar de la Renta, silk taffeta gown with black Guipure lace bodice, spring 2012 (shown above in photo).

Peter Woytuk Sculpture at Columbus Circle with the Museum of Art and Design in background

Next was a walk along Broadway on the Upper West Side to see some site specific sculptures by Peter Woytuk.These sculptures are playful and whimsical. They comprise of oversize animals and fruits in the little green strips or plazas along busy Broadway. They are great as they bring a touch of surprise to the commuters and travelers. They appear out of nowhere and their scale, size and sometimes color forces one to stop and take notice. It is a way for nature to reclaim the city while providing the busy New Yorkers with respite from the everyday....

Pair (Spooning) at 107th Street

The Acorn Bench at 73rd Street

My favorite, Kiwi at 72nd Street

My favorite was the giant kiwi at the 72nd Street station. At least 5meters in height, with an equally large belly, this bird in bright blue sits on its butt and seems to be very happy ! The sculpture somehow made me think of the animated movie 'Happy Feet' and I imagined this kiwi skidding through ice and having the time of its life....screaming 'wooohooooo'!!...... Such is the power of art, it can transport the viewer from a dry hardscaped train station to icy glaciers and feelings of childlike exhilaration !

More on architecture in Part II, to be continued...

I recently came across the term 'Barefoot Luxury' in the

Conde Nast Traveller

magazine. The magazine used it to describe one of the three hotels in their listing of most romantic hotels in Goa.

I was intrigued by the term 'Barefoot Luxury'. At first glance, it could be so appropriately used to describe the design themes and concepts employed by us in the NIVIM house in Goa. But before giving in to liberally using the term to describe our house, I ran some basic internet search. The search resulted in a handful of gorgeous resorts in exotic locations of Seychelles, Australia, Kenya, Morocco, Sri Lanka, St. Lucia, Indonesia and Grenada.

A

website for 'the word lover's guide to new words'

describes Barefoot Luxury as 'comfort and elegance in a relaxed setting'.

Time magazine had an article on Barefoot Luxury in Indonesia

. They described the concept as 'an upmarket restatement of the backpackers beach holiday, stressing simplicity and raw nature'. The article went onto describe a beautiful Indonesian hotel on

Nikoi Island

, where the beach houses are designed using natural driftwood, feature open bathrooms, and with no provision for air-conditioning and televisions. The idea is to return to basics and enjoy the luxury of being reconnected with nature. So far so good...

Other properties used the term to describe luxury that is sustainable and that understands and employs local resources (materials for construction, local worforce for training and employment). Luxury that is elegant yet understated.

Well as it happens, most of the above considerations are in sync with our philosophy behind the house NIVIM Goa. Our core design concept is reconnecting with nature and building in a manner that respects and celebrates our truly glorious and unspoiled surroundings in Goa. Our design is intended to extend comfort and luxury while being true to the land. We want to enhance the relationship of the building with nature and reduce the impact of the building on the surrounding landscape. So I guess the term Barefoot Luxury does aptly apply to us after all !

Closer to home, we just spent a great weekend at the

Wildernest resort in Chorla Ghats in Goa

. I would say it is another great example of Barefoot Luxury.

Picture window view from the valley-view cottage at Wildernest, Goa

The pictures below describe more than I can in words...but here are the subtle items that the pictures miss. Wildernest is built and managed in a way that it utlizes local building materials sourced such that it has the least impact on new resources. Built primarily in wood, the visionary behind Wildernest decided not to cut any new forest for their wood. As a compromise, they have used mostly Acacia wood (from the Australian Acacia variety that is actually an invasive specie in India and does not support biodiversity in the area where they grow). In addition, they sourced all their Acacia from social forests. The second type of wood used is reclaimed wood from old Indian Railway sleepers that the government has been replacing with concrete sleepers. Most paving, no actually all paving outdoors in pervious and hence does not stop the natural flow of water back into the earth. Minimum number of trees were cut during construction and the result is an eco-resort that is neselled within the forest. At most times, it is difficult to see any built structure. Spread over 450 acres, the constructed portion is concentrated in a limited area to reduce the impact of (even their most careful and minimal) construction in the virgin forests.

The deck in the cottage overlooking the forest

Wildernest is the vision of a man, Capt. Nitin Dhond who decided to rally and protect these 450 acres of forest land from being encroched by the surrounding iron ore mines, and resulting loss of agriculture, local livelihood and biodiversity. The hotel is now managed in the most sustainable, friendly and efficient manner. The staff hails from the local villages. They are superbly trained to make the guest feel at home, and often surprise them by pointing out birds, animals and medicial plant species. They offer filtered water in the rooms to reduce the need and use of plastic bottled water. The lovely bathrooms are stocked with herbal powders to be used as soap and shampoo to reduce use and discharge of chemicals. The food served uses mostly local produce and recipes.

During our short stay we saw a Malabar Pied Hornbill, a Brahminy Skink and a Green Vine Snake. We relaxed in the peace and quiet green environs and trekked to a beautiful waterfall. It was Barefoot Luxury at its best and we were left wanting more...

Earthy bathroom with its own picture window overlooking the forest and valley

Dining area at sunset

Deck areas at sunset

15,000 miles in 4 weeks

In the last week, I have been to Singapore, attended a wedding in Mumbai, a funeral in Ajmer (Rajasthan) and entertained friends in Goa. If I include three more weeks then I have also been through New York, Germany and Delhi. While I was traveling some 15,000 miles across 3 continents, 4 countries and 10 cities, my team back in Goa were continuing their efforts to move along the design and construction on-site. Thanks to the "flat world" brought to us by information technology, I was able to run my job-site seamlessly amid all the travels. We continued our project meetings through Skype and construction monitoring through bi-weekly digital photography.

What got left behind were my regular construction blog posts and I hope to make up for it in the coming weeks.

I like this photo a lot as it shows how the fully built structure of the house is completely hidden by the exiting foliage on site. The pool pavilion structure on the left is designed as a light structure built completely in wood and steel.

Here is an update@ week 45? There has been good progress and have completed the steel framing for all the openings and the wood rafters for the sloping wood and tile roofs (above LHS guest bedroom and master bedroom). In addition to this we now have a large team of carpenters who are busy preparing lovely teak wood for the fixed louvers and sliding doors.

Pool pavilion as seen from the living room in the main house

The pavilion block is shaping up really well too and the steel frame structure is almost completed. This structure will then be topped by wood rafters and then a sloping roof membrane.

All this while, the electrical points, plumbing and waterproofing is also being carried out. The site in general is buzzing with activity with civil work, woodwork, electrical and plumbing all happening simultaneously.

Fruiting Tamarind tree on-site

The weather in Goa has already turned to it's annual best. Winter weather in Goa can be compared with Spring or early Fall weather in New York. One is treated each morning by a clear blue sky, light filtered sun that makes everything shine and a cool soft breeze. This is a time when we can now conduct our project meetings on-site at the deck area offering a glimpse to the glorious moments the house will present once it is ready for use.

Tamarinds from our tree ! 

In other news, the tamarind trees on site are fruiting and there are countless tamarinds on-site. We have 2 full grown tamarind trees on-site. There is also a tree on-site that gives a fruit called Tehfa. This fruits smell and look like tiny lemons first and then breaks open to produce black peppercorn like seeds. The fruit is used specially to cook a special Goan Mackerel curry. The one tree on-site has enough fruit to feed curry to the entire village!